Day 22, Santiago de Compostela

I’m quite excited about the day, but for reasons other than the beauty of nature, which I have done nothing but rave about so far.  Santiago de Compostela is the final destination for hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year walking the Camino de Santiago.  If we’re to believe wikipedia, over 300,000 last year, so that would be over 1000 people per day in the warmer months.  For more than 1000 years pilgrims have walked to the tomb of St James the Apostle, carrying a scallop shell and staff.  

Why you might ask?  Well in short, in the 9th century a religious hermit Pelayo found the tomb of the apostle - James the Great.  Once the news was confirmed by the local archbishop, the Asturian king, and later the Pope, the impact was instant and indelible.  A flood of Christian Europeans began to head toward Compostela in search of salvation and it soon became the most important christian destination after Rome and Jerusalem.  Its popularity increased in the 11th century when papal decrees granted it Holy Year status, meaning pilgrims could receive a plenary indulgence - a full remission of your lifetimes sins.  This only happens in Holy Years, which is when the 25th of July falls on a Sunday.  The next will be 2021.  I’m in!

As for the significance of the scollop shell and staff, this has been debated over the years and it is only speculation as to whether the meaning is metaphorical, mythical or practical.  But it seems today’s pilgrims all carry a scallop and the Credencial - the pilgrims passport.  The scallop as a symbol that the pilgrim is undertaking the Camino, and the passport to prove their achievement.  Anyone who walks more than 100kms or cycles more than 200kms and has the stamps to prove this, is entitled to the Compostela - the certificate of accomplishment issued by the church (via the pilgrims office).  For anyone wanting to get a sense of what the walk is like, the film starring Martin Sheen called “The Way” is a great (and emotional) watch.

So our day started with a couple of kilometre walk into Santiago de Compostela instead of a bus trip from the caravan park, and much to our surprise we followed the last kilometre of the Camino.  We saw a few pilgrims in front and behind us - most with a Scallop shell hanging from their pack or around their necks.  The short walk for us was mostly downhill and being a Sunday the streets were quiet, so it was a really pleasant walk.  We followed the Camino into the old town and along the cobblestoned streets, eventually to the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.  Of course stopping for fresh baguettes (and an empanada) on the way - our daily ritual now.

The streets were beautiful and (early in the day) peaceful to walk through.  Narrow cobblestoned lanes with multiple story buildings either side.  Most housing/apartments above shops seemed to have brightly coloured planter boxes hung outside the windows, and many of the shops and/or cafes seemed to have a back door also, which opened into a courtyard where people were congregating.

When we arrived at the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela there were people everywhere.  The vast number were pilgrims that had obviously completed the Camino today or in the previous days.  Lots of congratulations, some obvious reunions of people they had met along their journey, but plenty of tired and well weathered looking people.  The Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the cathedral was the focal point for people gathering, and it was surrounded by lovely buildings, despite not being the side of the open entrance or exit to the cathedral itself. 

On our first attempt to enter the cathedral, it looked as though they were closing to the public - we guess for Mass, so we continued to aimlessly stroll around the streets that were getting busy now with the lunch crowd.  We found the awesomest tasting gelato at a shop called Limoncelli, sat in the Parque de Alameda in the shade for a bit, and then headed back toward the cathedral.  Given I couldn’t take our backpack into the cathedral, Madi and I waited outside the exit in Plaza de la Quintana, while Kristie and Sierra went through the cathedral first, and then Madi and I afterward.  We were each happy to sit on the steps in the shade having a rest from the heat while the others were inside.

The Catedral de Santiago de Compostela is different to others we have been in.  The layout, in that you can walk around the altar, the art and sculptures inside the cathedral itself with the Botafumeiro - which is a large thurible that hangs from the main dome at a height of 20m.  The Botafumeiro takes eight men to swing it into the side naves and is used during the cathedral’s main solemnities.  

As with other cathedrals, there are also a number of smaller chapels off the side of the main chapel/cathedral, each adorned with art and sculptures.  The sculptures and art above the altar were also beautiful, ornate and unlike anything else we have seen to date.  You could also visit a crypt under the altar or climb up behind the altar to embrace the image of apostle St James.

Feeling like we had walked most of the old town, it was time to retreat from the heat and return to the caravan park so the girls could go for a long awaited swim in the pool.  What was left of the afternoon was spent relaxing and we even dined out at the restaurant at the caravan park called "A Grella".  

Now I know it doesn’t sound like much - eating at a caravan park restaurant, but it was so busy the night before and not with tourists, but what seemed like locals.  It was Portuguese cuisine so we thought we would give it a go, and we were not disappointed.  Obviously the speciality is meat and boy do they know how to cook and season without hiding the meat under a sauce or gravy.  Everyone loved their meals, including Sierra who had a whole (adult meal) steak to herself, and then deserts which were just divine.  We’d eat there again given the opportunity.

Oh and can I tell you, Google Translate on the iPhone has been invaluable in helping us translate all sorts of things on out trip, but it is particularly helpful with working out what food is what.  Except at dinner tonight.  The picture below is a print screen of my iPhone translating the menu.  Look closely and see if you can find the error?

It was then off to bed, hoping that the noise of the concert/rave that started last night around midnight and went to 4:00am, was not a reoccurrence on a Sunday night.  Our Swiss neighbours informed us that Saturday night (Sunday morning) concerts were a bit of a thing in Spain cities.